As I prepare for another puppy training series in Waynesboro (October 16th) I can't help but think about my dog (who has now passed) that led me into dog training 11 years ago.
At 8 weeks of age, and after his first round of vaccinations, I was eager to attend a local Puppy Social in Philadelphia (where I used to live). This was my first puppy and I was determined to do it right.
At the first social, my puppy and I were asked to take a break. I was told by, a very knowledgeable and experienced dog trainer who ran the social, to "...wait for eye contact before you come back in." The problem is, we never made it back in. He never did offer that eye contact, and I was worried. What did this mean? How would he get appropriate socialization?
We were encouraged to start puppy training classes. Of course, I jumped at the opportunity! My puppy, Kane, was intelligent and driven to work, but he also struggled being around other puppies. He would become over aroused (a term I came to learn meant = checked out and dangerously close to reacting to other dogs and people). The trainer running the class brought a barrier to block his visual access to all the stimuli that was present in the class. This helped, but he was still agitated, however, he could do the work. I thought, okay, we're still here. We didn't get kicked out. Everything's okay.
But it wasn't. Puppies need positive early life exposures. Consider this the in arms phase that a baby needs when they're born. If we leave the newborn (actually, babies up to 6 months) to cry it out, we agitate the sympathetic nervous system, strengthening it, if you will. We want to keep stress at bay, short periods of crying (or in this case, barking, whining and hyper focusing on other puppies) very short, and attend to the puppy's needs.
What does this mean? It means. I should have been asked to leave the group training class. In-home dog training is the only choice when your dog can't pay attention, or work, calmly, at a safe distance. Why, you ask?
Because early life exposures are so important for puppies. They strengthen what the dog is already predisposed to -- stress, anxiety, aggression -- or in some lucky owner's circumstances -- focus, eagerness to train, how to avoid distractions with a calm, conditioned emotional response. If we train in conditions that are suboptimal for our puppies, we are in essence, reinforcing undesirable behaviors (puppy see dogs = becomes stressed, agitated, hyper excited/aroused).
So, how do you know if your puppy is ready for socialization in a classroom setting? Great question, you're on your way to being a responsible puppy owner.
See the checklist below to asses your puppy in class, and remember, not all dog trainers are as skilled as others. If you see something that your trainer is not speaking to you about, consider asking for a refund and inquiring about a dog trainer who offers positive, in-home dog training. It doesn't mean you won't be classroom material forever, it just means that the foundation work needs to be taught in a less stimulating environment and that the puppy needs exposures to puppies and dogs from a safe distance at first.
Checklist to ensure your puppy belongs in a group setting --
Puppy makes occasional eye contact, known as check in's, for feedback from their owner (this also means they are t becoming "fixed" on another puppy, which leads to understands behaviors)
Puppy doesn't whine, bark to pull away, hide or shiver (all of these are signs that the dog's sympathetic nervous system is perceiving a threat = negative early life exposures = a conditioned anxious, phobic or reactive dog)
Your puppy will work for food, with eagerness (if you have to push the food into your puppy's mouth, and they eat it, begrudgingly, this doesn't count) -- this indicates your puppy is anxious and/or stressed and his appetite has diminished (taking space can help, but pay attention to your puppy's body language from that point, and be honest with yourself. If training is not working, you should calmly leave and ask the trainer for a refund)
Your puppy will play with a toy, or happily go sniff the grass outside when you are released for a break
Puppy can sit on a blanket or mat in between sessions without pulling, barking or running away or shivering (all of these are signs your puppy is struggling, their sympathetic nervous system is over stimulated and they are not learning/having positive early life exposures)
The take away -- socialization is not throwing your puppy into a crowd of puppies and hoping they play. It is seeing if they enjoy playing with puppies their age/size and play style.
Socialization is meeting your puppy where they are at to give them positive, early life exposures, even if this is from a distance at first. Some puppies just need to see other puppies at dogs from a distance to learn how to be calm around them before getting in close proximity. Your puppy can, and will thrive, if you take small steps towards more direct interactions.
Socialization is giving your puppy appropriate interactions with people. Wait to see if your puppy wants to be pet, and if they don't rush over to the person (after you cue a sit, of course :)) then just talk to the person and tell them that you are building your puppy's confidence around d strangers. Letting a puppy that does not want to be pet is not socialization. It's intimidating and reinforces their fear and uncertainty. I know none of you want to do that. Take your time.
If this resonated witb you, drop me a line. Text me. Or call! I love talking dog. No strings attached.
You are a responsible, loving puppy owner. Now, take the steps to ensure you take the right steps to have that happy, healthy pup you've always dreamed of. Do the work, and the pay off will be forever rewarding. What's better than that?!
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